Autentic kitesurfing experience in Colombia
- Emely Freja Petersen
- 2 days ago
- 6 min read
Darkness and cold have settled in. If you’re dreaming of escaping to warmer climates, take a look at this travel story from Colombia.
I visited Colombia in 2017 and wrote this blog back then, so many things may have changed or be different today.
In October 2016, I began a six-month journey that started with a one-way ticket to Brazil and very few plans. After spending two and a half months in Brazil, I traveled for a month through Panama and Costa Rica before continuing on to Colombia. Colombia turned out to be an amazing choice, offering unique nature and cultural experiences.
Nice to know
Language: Spanish
Currency: Colombian pesos (COP)
Food worth trying: Tomate de árbol. I’m fairly sure there’s no English or Danish translation, but it literally means “tomato from a tree.” It’s a fruit that resembles a tomato in appearance, though it’s sweeter and most commonly enjoyed as a jugo (juice).
Cabo de la Vela – the kitesurf spot
The first stop on the journey was Cabo de la Vela, a very remote little Wayuu indigenous fishing village. The Wayuu people live in traditional, simple huts made from cactus, where they sleep in hammocks right by the beautiful turquoise sea.
This way of life is also reflected in the accommodation options for visitors. The village is powered by a generator, and electricity and running water are only available for a few hours a day—typically for a couple of hours after sunset. There is absolutely no internet connection, so you truly feel far removed from the rest of the world, with nothing to do but live in the present moment.
It’s a very unique feeling, and one that is becoming increasingly hard to find elsewhere in the world.
After a few days in Cabo, it becomes difficult to imagine life outside the village, and eventually your thoughts drift to little more than what you’re looking forward to eating once you return to “reality.” The menu is limited, but the area is known for having some of the best lobster and fish in South America.
As Lonely Planet also points out, Cabo de la Vela is not for everyone—especially not for travelers seeking a bit of luxury. No one in the village speaks English, so if you don’t speak Spanish, it’s a good idea to bring a dictionary, unless you’re exceptionally good at communicating through gestures 😉
The easiest way to get to Cabo is to fly to Riohacha and then take a taxi for around 250,000 COP. From Riohacha, it’s also possible to travel by shared taxi—known as a colectivo—from Cootrauri to Uribia, which costs around 15,000 COP. You wait until the vehicle fills up, and departures run between 5 a.m. and 6 p.m. The journey takes about an hour.
From Uribia, you continue in a 4WD truck, sitting on small benches in the back. This part of the trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs about 15,000 COP. The trucks can get quite crowded, carrying everything from locals to goats and smuggled gasoline from Venezuela. It may sound like a complicated journey, but it’s actually quite straightforward and worked perfectly fine even with large kitesurfing bags.
It’s possible to reach Riohacha from larger cities such as Santa Marta and Cartagena.
Cabo de la Vela offers stunning sunsets and a beautiful beach. From the village, it’s also possible to take a trip to Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of South America.
We came primarily to kitesurf. We had heard good things about the spot and seen amazing photos and videos. We quickly agreed that it is the flattest spot we have ever seen. The spot is offshore, and the wind travels about 60 km over land before reaching the water, which makes it extremely gusty. Not gusty in the way we’re used to back home—I would describe it more as very inconsistent. You can be riding at full speed and suddenly, out of nowhere, there’s no wind at all.
We had one day with no wind, otherwise conditions ranged from light-wind sessions to very, very powered sessions on small kites. The area is relatively large, and you can stand in most places, but you do need to watch out for stingrays (rays with barbs on their tails—at least that’s what I think they were trying to explain to me; unfortunately my Spanish isn’t that good). There are several kite schools offering lessons, and the instructors seemed competent.
We spent around 10 days in the village and had a good time, but I wouldn’t recommend going there specifically for kitesurfing. The wind is simply too inconsistent to be truly enjoyable, and the location isn’t easily accessible.
Santa Marta
From Riohacha, we took a bus to Santa Marta—a very comfortable ride for just 15,000 COP. In Santa Marta, we stayed at Aluna, which offers very nice private rooms and dorms at great value. The atmosphere is calm, with pleasant common areas, a good kitchen, and a large book exchange. The staff are kind and helpful, and the hostel is centrally located.
We also checked out the well-known Dreamer Hostel, but it was quite far outside the city (you need to take a taxi to get there). There were lots of people and loud music and drinking already early in the day. It’s a good place if you want to meet other young travelers and enjoy a party atmosphere.
Santa Marta is a lovely, cozy harbor town. There isn’t a huge amount to do, but many people spend time here before and/or after trips to the Sierra Nevada. There’s a nice beachfront promenade, street stalls, museums (some are free), and several good places to eat.
I would definitely recommend Ikaro, a vegan and vegetarian restaurant with surprisingly flavorful dishes.
In the evenings, there’s a great vibe on the main street, where various artists perform—everything from amazing breakdancing to beautiful singing and violin playing. I truly enjoyed watching the incredibly talented performers.
La Ciudad Perdida
In Santa Marta, we booked a four-day jungle trek to La Ciudad Perdida. La Ciudad Perdida is an ancient city located several days’ walk into the stunning Sierra Nevada mountains. During the trek, you sleep either in bunk beds or hammocks, and hike between 6 and 8 hours each day.
The trek is physically demanding, with lots of steep ups and downs, but it is absolutely worth the effort if you’re in Colombia. I’ve never experienced such beautiful nature combined with such rich culture. Along the way, you pass through several small villages where indigenous communities still live, sustaining themselves on vegetables grown on the surrounding plains.
We did the trek with the local company Magic Tours and were very satisfied. They provided an engaged and knowledgeable guide and translator, good food (including vegetarian options), plenty of snacks, and the flexibility to walk at your own pace.
In the past, large parts of the Sierra Nevada were used to cultivate marijuana and coca. There are still many coca plants in the area, and the indigenous people are known for chewing the leaves together with calcium, which is said to bring them closer to nature.
I can only highly recommend this wonderful trek.
Cartagena
Our trip to Colombia ended in Cartagena. We took a shuttle from Santa Marta, although we could just as well have taken a local bus, which would have taken roughly the same amount of time and been more comfortable.
We spent a day in the colorful seaside city exploring interesting shops and markets and enjoying good food. It’s noticeably more touristy than the other places we visited in Colombia, but still very charming. The city also has an airport with frequent flights, including connections to Bogotá.
A wonderful trip to Colombia, offering everything from great hours on the water to fascinating culture and breathtaking nature!
Have you visited Colombia yourself? What did you think of it? Or maybe you’re planning a trip there?
You’re more than welcome to join us on our kitesurfing and/or yoga adventures!
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